Hemlock Tee

A quick post for a quick make!

This is the Grainline Hemlock tee which is a free pattern that you can download from here.  It's available in one size (Jen's!).

I bought some navy jersey, planning to fill a wardrobe gap (I have one navy tee and lots of things that go with it which I can't wear when it is in the wash, as it is every week).  I was going to make a Renfrew, but totally failed to notice that my jersey had precisely zero stretch in it (why do they make fabric like that?).  I needed something looser fitting to compensate for lack of stretch and Hemlock fit the bill!

I after a little bit of measuring, I cut the pattern as drafted.  I have seen looser fitting versions which work well too!  It went together in about 40 mins on my overlocker, and I twin-needled the cuffs and hem.

I'm not sure this fits into my everyday work style, but I think it could still work tucked in.  But it's certainly a great lounging staple - I do like the dropped shoulder and the wide neckline.

I still need that navy Renfrew tho - must check the stretch of jersey before buying!

Wardrobe Architect Week 4 - Silhouettes

Wardrobe Architect Silhouettes by sewlittletime on polyvore.com

I had a lot of fun with this one!  I put together the above collages really quickly as I had already spent time thinking about my preferred shapes and had gathered quite a lot of inspiration on my Happy Wardrobe Pinterest board.

All of this thinking since starting Happy Wardrobe led me to the realisation that I really do love to wear dresses of all kinds.  There's a place in my wardrobe for casual knit dresses, long and short sleeved woven dresses and shirt dresses.  What they all have in common is a fitted bodice and a flared skirt.  I like the same overall shape when it comes to skirts - a fitted top and flared skirt (also a-line shapes).

For trousers, I am giving up the skinnies!  I feel much more comfortable in wide leg or bootcut/ flared trousers, again with a fitted top.  I do love slim cropped trousers in the summer though.

I love boat necks and peter pan collars, but I also wear scoop necks and v necks.  Slim fitting cardigans are an important part of my wardrobe - I have so many cardigans that I have a filing system for them!  Once my carpal tunnel improves I need to get knitting the Miette I have planned in my head.

The clothes that get the most wear in our generally fairly rainy and grey climate are ones that can be worn or without tights (and tights save on the fake tan for my pasty pins!), so unless it's a very summery item, i often steer clear of the lightest colours.

And definitely no heels!  I have heels but rarely wear them unless it's to a formal event.  I'm tall so don't need the extra height, and frankly can't be bothered.  They don't do well with my walking pace or lifestyle.  Flat boots, brogues, ballet pumps or flat sandals it is! (and based on the collages above I need a pair of red ballet flats - you can never have too many pairs of red shoes).

How did you find this week's exercise?  Was it easy or hard to distill your style into a few silhouettes?

The Vintage Pattern Pledge

Do you have a lot of vintage patterns that you haven't sewn up?  But they are so tempting and so pretty right?  But then they get bumped for a new indie pattern all the coolkids are sewing up.

This is exactly what I am like and Marie from A Stitching Odyssey feels the same!

She has started the Vintage Pattern Pledge here and I am joining in!

During 2014, I, Joanne, will sew up at least five garments from vintage patterns.

I haven't gone for 5 patterns as I am not sure if that will work for me - if i find ones that work well, I may make more than one version!  But I'll probably choose at least 5 patterns to give myself a choice.

I'll be posting over the next few days with the patterns I am planning to use.  And if you are up for this challenge, stay tuned for the Pattern Pyramid and you can grab yourself a choice of more vintage patterns!

Are you in?   

Wardrobe Architect - Week 3

Onto week 3!  This week the task focuses on specific shapes and styles in dresses, skirts, trousers, tops, jackets, cardigans and outerwear.  We also have to think about neckline and sleeve styles we like.

I found this fairly quick and easy to do as I had been thinking about it already for my Happy Wardrobe project.

In terms of ease, I like fitted tops and looser trousers.  I'm not keen on loose fitting dresses as I think they make me look bigger overall.

For length, I like maxi or knee length skirts and dresses.  As I am tall, I tend to like tops that sit on my hips - I'm not a big fan of tunics (they can look like too-short dresses) and cropped styles make me look like a giant wearing too small clothes!

I like full-ish skirts.  A full circle can make me feel a bit dressed up for everyday, but dirndl/ gathered are good.  A-line is also very much my comfort zone.  I feel less happy in straight skirts (altho my Hummingbirds have seen a lot of wear!) and I don't normally wear pencil skirts.

A big reason that I sew is that I never get waistlines at the right level in RTW.  I have a high waist but as I'm tall, I rarely find things that actually fit on my waist (including a beautiful vintage 1950s silk dress i tried on the other day - sob!  Must find fabric and make my own version!) and I spend the day pulling dresses and tops down to my waistline and hoiking jeans/ trousers up!  I generally go for natural waistline for dresses (never empire line) and slightly lower for trousers and skirts.  I do like a high waist too - I wear my Kelly skirts a lot (wearing one now in fact!) and it's a flattering look I think.  I really don't like things with no waistline - it definitely makes me look bigger as I have a large frame.

I'm less fussy about necklines and sleeves.

I can live with most necklines with a preference for boatneck, sweetheart and scoop.  I don't tend to wear very low necklines and jewel necks can be a bit choking.

I am happy with most lengths of sleeve, other than above the elbow.  I find this uncomfortable to wear and not especially flattering!

Looking forward to week 4!

Plantain challenge!

I recently found a fabric shop (worrying close to work as far as my bank balance is concerned) with loads of fabric on sale for either £1 or £2 a metre.

I picked up loads of knits as my wardrobe is lacking in me-made long sleeved tees, with the plan to try out the Grainline Hemlock and see if i liked the looser silhouette.  And then Deer and Doe brought out the Plaintain tee which is another free download.

It's a loose-ish fitting casual tee with long and short sleeved options, elbow patches and a scoop neck.  And there's a competition!

The fabric I chose for was a navy and white striped heavyish weight knit with an interesting ribbed texture on the (plain navy) reverse side.  I wanted to play with the reverse side with some accents, so I drew a line on the pattern piece parallel to the shoulder seams, finishing at the front armhole notch.  On the back I went straight across to the lower back notch.  Of course you need to add seam allowances onto these so you can sew them together!  I cut the neckband and elbow patches as normal but used the reverse side.  At the last minute, I decided to add bands of navy around the cuffs.  I used the same method as the Renfrew cuffs with a folded band which also saved on hemming time!  The hem is twin-needled.

I sewed the whole thing on my overlocker, just using my sewing machine for topstitching.  I doubted my ability to get the neckband on correctly with the overlocker but it worked really well and was so fast!

Once I was almost finished I tried it on and felt the loose fit around the waist and hips wasn't especially right for me, so I took a wedge out at each side seam from waist to hip - it ended up being about 3" taken out at the hemline.  Apart from this, I sewed up a straight size 40.  I don't normally wear tunic length tops so I decided not to add to the length as I usually would to make things fit. 

The pattern lends itself really well to customisation -  Anna from Paunnet has made a really cute dress version, so I'm hoping to see some lovely versions popping up on the blogosphere this week.  Have you seen Rachel's deer and doe elbow patches?  Amazing!

Are you entering the competiion?  Link me up to your version if so - I'd love to see!

Wardrobe Architect - Week 2

Oh I am behind!  It's been a crazy week and I've only just got around to blogging last week's Wardrobe Architect and now the next one has just been posted!

The Husband has been away for work, throwing all of our precarious childcare arrangements into disarray, so I've been working through lunchtimes (when I usually blog) so I can leave early or come in late.  Thanks goodness he is back today!

So on to Wardrobe Architect week 2!

This week is about identifying words that describe how we feel about our style and ourselves and attach images to them.

When you are wearing your favourite clothing, how do you feel?

 Confident, slim, put together, stylish, quirky, attractive

When you are wearing something that is not quite right, how do you feel?  What are the feelings you want to avoid about the clothes you wear?

 Uncomfortable, restricted, fidgity, exposed, judged

Who do you consider to be your style icons?  What is it about them that appeals to you?

 Jane Birkin - laid back, carefree but still glamorous
Daisy Lowe (and actually Pearl Lowe too!) - mixes vintage and modern with a bit of an edge
Alexa Chung - also mixes vitage and modern with lovely detailing and cute accessories
Lou Douillon - quirky and rebellious
Karen Gillan - vintage style with a bit of a modern edge

What are some words that describe things you like in theory, but are not quite you?

 Fashionable, loose, funky, urban, minimal

Under this, I also noted that I love Audrey Hepburn and the way she dressed, but it's just not me at all.  I wouldn't suit her style.  I thought about why this was and I think it is that she had a very clear style that was totally her, and she always stuck to it.  She was always beautifully chic (of course it helps if Givenchy dress you!), wearing plain coloured, slim fitting styles that really showed off her petite figure.  So a clear style seems to me to be really important.

Looking at answers from week 1, list 15 words that you associate with your answers

 Difference, confidence, ethical, practical, standing out, focus, clear, dual purpose, work, home, child-friendly, music, slow fashion, quality, balance

Are there any words you would add to this list? What other words describe your core style?

 Vintage, modern (since these 2 are a bit contradictory I am interpreting it as mixing vintage with modern), rebellion

If you had to narrow your list to 3-5 words to describe your style what would they be?

Vintage
Modern Twist
Practical
Confident
Great accessories!

Here's my moodboard, broadly collated from my Happy Wardrobe Project Pinterest board (which you can find here if you like).  I skipped the pics of dresses on their own or on models in favour of real people or characters as I think it gives a better feel for how the looks might actually be worn.

Now onto the next task!

A "free" hat

When I finished my Hetty cardigan I had a skein of Malabrigo Worsted left over.  3 skeins would have given me just enough yarn according to the patterns and as I was planning to lengthen I bought 4 just in case.

I found this cute beret pattern by Andi Satterlund. It's a free pattern so I'm calling this a totally free project!

Love those decreases in the star shape!

 The beret knits up quickly and easily in the round- I think it only took me a couple of days. It's got a simple cable pattern around the band - this would be a great introduction to cables if you want to learn them.

I blocked it round a dinner plate which was the perfect size.

What is the weird stripe in my hair?  I swear that's not normally there!

 A nice quick wearable project and toasty warm as it's getting colder here.