Me Made May week 1

It's been a successful week and I have found it easy so far!

1st May - Square necked Alma blouse and cornflower blue Kelly skirt
2nd May - Purple Red Velvet with collar
3rd May - Denim Pavlova skirt, rose print Kimono tee (unblogged) and Carmine jacket
4th May - Nautical Emery dress
5th May - Blue Marl Renfrew tee
6th May - Charcoal grey Tiramisu
7th May - Navy wool Anna (whoops, something's gone wrong with that post - will fix it!) and Hetty cardigan

In addition I have repaired the zip on my Flora and stitched the wrap part down, so one item is gone from the mending pile. 

I have put my back out so no movement on the knickers front as taping PDFs and cutting on the floor really aren't happening until it's feeling better!

Minerva Blogger Network - My Favourite Jacket!

This could be one of my most useful makes ever!

I have been holding out for the release of the Carmine Jacket from Cake Patterns since late last year when it was announced as part of the Red Velvet Collection.  It's no secret that I am a total Cake fangirl - I have made 2 Tiras, 2 Pavlova skirts, a long sleeved and short sleeved Pavlova wrap top, 3 Red Velvet dresses, 2 Cabarita tops, 2 Hummingbird skirts and 2 Hummingbird peplum tops.  Actually, am I out of fangirl and into stalker territory yet?

It seemed like a really useful little knit jacket (and is it any surprise I am planning another version already?)

The fabric is the Morgan crepe jersey that I have made 2 dresses from already (both Red Velvets which you can see here and here).  I really love this fabric and would recommend it for knit beginners - it's got a good amount of stretch but is stable and easy to work with, with no curling edges.  The crepe texture is really nice and there's a less textured side too (I always spend ages trying to choose which is the right side!).

The sizing follows Cake's usual method - choosing the bust size using high bust and working out the difference between high and full bust to work out the cup size (there are A-D lines on the pattern, but Steph has included directions for larger cup sizes).  It took me a while to get my head around the construction - there is a shrug piece which has underarm gussets, and a circular collar which makes the collar and the lower back of the jacket.  You cut the collar based on cup size too.

It went together really easily - I think this could be done (including the basted fitting of the shrug that Steph recommends) in about 2.5 hours.

I tried the stretch tricot stitch on my new machine for the first time.  I wasn't sure if this was the ubiquitous lightning bolt stitch that everyone recommends for sewing knits, but it worked really well.  Much more secure than my long narrow zig zag i have always used.  It's quite slow though - sewing round the outer edge of that huge collar piece took a while!  As the jersey was stable, I didn't use my walking foot.  And even my overlocker (or overlord as she is now known) played ball! You might want to add a tag at the back neckline - I had a small panic when trying on after I had added the button and buttonhole that I had totally messed with the fit, but then realised I had put it on upside down (doh!).

I added the button on quite low down to pull it in at the waist a bit, as I think this is more flattering on me, which gives a more dramatic collar.  Vicki from Minerva (the Buttonmaster General) helped me pick this fab burgundy "selfmade" button for it, but this is a great opportunity to showcase an excellent single button you might have in your button box.

This makes a great cardigan for this time of year, and it'll be a really useful jacket when the weather heats up a bit.

I have shown it here worn with a previous Minerva make - my Kelly skirt, but it goes just as well with jeans and dresses.

If you want to recreate this jacket, you can buy a kit here which includes 3m of the jersey (enough to cut the collar piece twice if you mess it up - ask me how I know!) and a "selfmade" button.

My winter cardigan - the Hetty

I finished my winter knitting project! Actually it was finished and blocked just before Christmas so I have worn it quite a bit already.

I wrote about my plans in this post.

The pattern is Andi Satterlund Hetty (Ravelry page here) and the wool is Malabrigo Worsted in Sweet Grape bought from Tangled Yarns.

I knitted the medium which gave a couple of inches of negative ease at the bust. I decided not to adjust the shoulder width following the advice of helpful Ravelry people (they are so helpful!). I skipped 2 decrease rows at the waistline to add 2" and added 2" in length to the body and 1" to the arms.

I think it worked out well - it's not tight across the shoulders and the waist is fine.

 

The wool was beautiful to knit with.  It's really soft and smooth and knits up so nicely. It's got a slight sheen which is gorgeous and shows off the stitch pattern well. And given that it's not itchy in the slightest I can barely believe it's 100% wool!

I found the  pattern to be slightly hard going as I'm not the greatest at counting stitches along the row - I prefer to understand the pattern so that I remember it. I had to take so many rows back (probably not helped by the fact I knitted the bulk of this when I was on flights and while jetlagged). But the shaping etc worked well and I found the short rows of the sleeve caps much easier than the first time I did this on my Deco cardigan.  And I love not having to seam at the end! 

 

I had my usual button indecision so decided to go for something inobtrusive. These clear buttons came from John lewis and were chosen by N. They are a little bit small so don't stay tightly done up, but I tend to wear cardigans open anyway so it's not a big problem. 

The colour took me a couple of weeks to work into rotation in my wardrobe but now that I have I have worn it loads.

I've done a couple of smaller projects (to be blogged soon) but I am trying to decide whether to take on another big knitting project. Maybe Miette or Owls (have you seen Lauren and Tasia's versions of this? So cute!).

Following a lot of discussion on KLine's blog about knitting styles I have been thinking about changing my knitting style. I'm a British knitter (as you might expect) and it's quite slow. I've also been suffering from carpal tunnel issues which I think would improve if I didn't "throw" the yarn. Perhaps eastern european style?

What knitting style do you use? Have you ever changed your style? Any cute patterns I should consider next?

Winter knitting project plans

I'm not an especially speedy knitter. Some bloggers seem to knit up a jumper every few weeks alongside their sewing projects but this is definitely not my way!

 

I plan for one completed project each winter and this is the one I'm working on this year.

 

 

 

I wanted to make a cardigan and was checking out Andi Satterlund patterns on Ravelry after seeing so many cute Miette cardigans popping up across the blogiverse. Her newest pattern Hetty jumped out at me.

 

It's a gorgeous lacey pattern with a round neck. As it is knitted with aran /worsted weight wool it knits up quickly and doesn't use up vast quantities of wool.

 

I always find it hard to choose wool. I can't wear pure wool but the 100% synthetic yarns are generally not that nice. If I am going to the trouble to knit something I want it to be better quality than I could buy on my budget in a shop.

 

So of course I asked Twitter and SewBusyLizzy recommended I look at Malabrigo Worsted (thanks Lizzy! ). As we know, she is SewRightLizzy so I decided to try it. After much colour deliberation (my original plan was a burgundy colour but nowhere had enough of it to complete the project) I picked Sweet Grape - a dark greyish-purple.

 

 

 

When it arrived I was in love! This wool is so beautiful! It's very smooth and soft -I'll have no problem wearing it. It has a slight sheen to it which makes the stitches look gorgeous.  And as it's 100% wool I'll be able to block it well to show off the lovely lace pattern.

 

Based on a tension square I needed to go up a needle size (to 5.5 mm rather than 5mm) to get the right gauge. I'm a tight knitter so this is normal for me.

 

I'm knitting the medium size  (Andi recommends 0-2" of negative ease for this pattern) but am lengthening the body by a couple of inches - it's a fairly short style but I don't want it to look too cropped. I consulted the helpful Ravelry peeps about other fitting changes after doing a bit of measuring. I decided not to widen the shoulders on their advice as I will be able to block it a bit larger. I needed an extra couple of inches room at the waist so I'm going to skip a couple of decrease rows in the body.

 

Can't wait to get this finished so I can wear the cardigan instead of just cuddling the wool! And there will definitely be more Malabrigo in my future!

The finishing finishes me off...

I always find I have difficulties getting garments finished.  By the time you get to the final stages, the interesting sewing is done and you're left with boring hemming, and I did exactly the same with this cardigan.

I posted previously that I was working on the Kate Davies Deco cardigan.

After seeing Kerry's Manu cardigan I checked out Kate Davies designs and totally fell in love with this design.  The lines are inspired by art deco buildings and 1920s artwork.

I had the perfect buttons already in my stash and chose the wool to go with them - Rowan Felted Tweed DK in Maritime.

This was to be a portable project to do over Christmas when we were away from home (and away from the sewing machine!), and also to do on the train.  However as it is knitted in one piece, it soon got too big to carry about every day for my commute.

Although I have been knitting since I was 7 (my gran taught me and my mum also knits) this was my first adult garment.  I knitted when I was pregnant - a couple of blankets, hats and cardigans (I love baby size things - they knit up so fast!) and have done a few since then but I'm only just now learning properly about tension, and how much difference my tight knitting makes to the fit.  Yes, I know I should have realised before - but this was my first tension square!

I needed to use 3.25mm (the pattern calls for 3mm) needles to get the right tension and I added 2" extra into the body above the waist shaping and before the pattern started, and the same onto the sleeves.

I learnt so many new techniques on this project - You Tube is an amazing resource for knitting, crochet and sewing how tos!  I learnt how to knit the sleeves directly onto the garment using short row shaping and the wrap and turn method , and a three needle bind off amongst other things.  I must admit I didn't buy an extra 2 sets of circular needles to pick up around the armholes - at £6 a pair that would have been a hefty investment, especially since one was in the size I was already using.  I borrowed DPNs from my sister in law and used them instead.  The pattern method meant no sewing up at the end, just weaving the ends in.  I had also learnt to join the ends together as I knitted after reading a post on Karen's blog about it - I didn't even know this existed, so thanks Karen!  Fewer ends to weave in is good.  I also learnt to use the Magic Loop for knitting the sleeves in the round (thanks again You Tube!).  Links to all You Tube tutorials are above.

I finished in in February, and blocked it (another new technique to me!).  I was slightly concerned on the size pre-blocking as it seemed small, but came out fine. 

And then it just needed button bands, snaps and buttons.  It waited.  And waited.  Until the Sewing Bee came on TV and I needed a hand sewing project to do while watching!  And of course it was finished in an evening.  I used raspberry pink grosgrain ribbon - I love the flash of the contrast colour inside!  And the buttons are just perfect in colour and style for the design.

Sorry for the stroppy face - no idea why!  I am very pleased with it!

Very pleased with it and you'll definitely be seeing it duirng Me Made May!

All about the knitting

As I mentioned in a previous post, I started knitting for the first time in ages to have a portable project to take away over Christmas.  It seems that I can't just sit still with nothing to do any more!

Kerry Kestrel put me on to Kate Davies designs after seeing her lovely Manu Very Scottish Cardigan and I totally fell in love with the Deco cardigan.

I love the texture of the pattern and the way the design shapes towards the waist is so flattering (you can see it better here)!

Although I have been knitting since I was about 7, and have made loads of toys, doll's clothes, baby/ child clothes and blankets, I don't think I have ever sewn an adult garment!  So I plunged into the world of tension squares (another first!).  After trying out a heavy 4 ply, I came to the conclusion that I needed a heavier wool to compensate for my tight knitting, and chose:

Rowan Felted tweed DK in Maritime.  I actually chose it to go with some buttons I bought from the market in Brighton.  I always find it so hard to choose buttons at the end of a project, so this way I know the buttons will work!

The pattern is for 3mm needles but I am using 3 1/4 mm to get the right guage.

I'm learning loads with this pattern - there's not nearly so much shaping in kids' garments!  More about that in a future post. 

But trying to get on with this and the Tira sewalong is proving tough.  Maybe I'll hold on the knitting for a week.  I had plans to take the knitting on the train with me, which was great when it was tiny, but with a cardigan knitted all in one piece, it becomes a bit bulky when you are half way down the sleeve!