I wasn't sure whether to write this post but after much prompting on Twitter, here it is!
I don't have a lot of sewing fails really. I'm quite methodical and usually make a muslin but the end result here isn't good and I'm not quite sure why!
The pattern is Christine Haynes Emery dress. I love it so much and every other blogger has raved about it and the perfect fit (Roisin amd Tasha's versions are gorgeous). I bought some lovely but relatively pricy John Kaldor fabric in the Sew Essential sale in January and Emery seemed like the perfect pattern for it. I love a boat neck, could easily change up the skirt and there are collar options.
Luckily I decided to make a muslin using some cheap poly crepe I picked up. I had an idea in my head for a lace overlay on the collar and I used a silvery grey lace for this.
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| OK so ignore my weird face - this is the only side pic |
As the bodice is lined I used a navy cotton - the cheap poly against the skin would not be pleasant! I love lined bodices as in addition to looking and feeling nice, you can use them as the muslin. I tissue fitted to work out length issues - I added 1" above the bust dart and 2" below and did my usual 1/2" FBA. I think this is where I went wrong however. I think I made the FBA too big (more like 1" - I really shouldn't eyeball. My eyeballs don't have a clue - or a tape measure) which accounts for some of the problems. I suspect adding length above the bust was less correct than moving the dart down? In the muslin the main issue appeared to be bagginess under the bust. I get this quite a lot and got some good advice to curve the bust darts to remove some bagginess. I think I made it too curved - probably due to excess at bust so it didn't press well. I did a square shoulder adjustment and added a little to the sleeve to match (and as I felt the sleeve might be a bit narrow anyway). I didn't muslin the skirt but added 3" in length after measuring.
The collar didn't attach easily either. I was easing the bodice into it a lot which gave some weird wrinkles - I asked about this on Twitter and no one else seems to have had this problem. I wonder if the crepe was stretching but the interfaced collar wasn't - the crepe stretching could account for a lot of the other problems!
I also didn't attach the collar correctly - the centre front seam isn't in the right place when I look at other collared versions - Lauren and Kathy's and it doesn't press or sit very flat. I think this caused problems when I hand sewed the lining at the waistband. Also the shell seemed to need to be eased to the lining which suggests the shell stretched.
There were a few good things about it - the fabric has great drape and eased nicely into the waistband with even gathers. The sleeves went in perfectly first time. The invisible zip is perfect.
The end result? A wrinkly pile of meh.
Just to be clear these are not issues with the pattern. It seems well drafted and the instructions are clear. I'm totally not giving up on it as I reckon I can fix the issues.
But I don't think this version is fixable and I suspect this is partly my too big FBA, partly the fabric and partly carelessness in attaching the collar and bodice.
What do you think? Could I /should I try and salvage it? Or start again with the right FBA? I'm not super attached to the fabric. It was and feels cheap and is tough to sew with and pin into. But I love the idea of the lace collar!
Can you give some fitting tips? Maybe a broad shoulder adjustment needed given the pulling at the shoulder? One observation is that the people who have blogged about getting a great fit were narrow across the shoulders which i am definitely not! Or is it just not a good style for me and I should give it up?
Well, first of all, it's a mockup. In cheapy fabric. Cheapy fabric = number one problem with overall meh.
ReplyDeletePin out some horizontal pinches to remove the bagginess and then adjust your pattern accordingly. (Skirt looks good btw!) Make another bodice mockup if it makes you feel better and then sew it up in some nice fabric - it will make a world of difference! =)
Thanks Brooke. I know it was a muslin but it was properly finished as I was hoping for wearable muslin. I hate wadders. I think I'll muslin again before using nice fabric!
DeleteThe upper back and upper chest are both pulling. It does look like the bodice is to small for your shoulders altogether. Next round, maybe go up a size and then do a FBA (smaller than the first, of course) and adjust the dart placement if necessary. I have broad shoulders even though I am a small person. I would recognize those strain lines anywhere!
ReplyDeleteThanks Lynn. I'm going to try a bigger size and see how I go. Good advice! I guess I may need to try the broad shoulder and square shoulder again. I don't feel I've ever quite cracked this adjustment but I think it's something I should be doing usually. Really appreciate your help!
DeleteI'm rubbish at fitting, so am not going to attempt to comment on that. I do love the lace overlay on the collar though. Could you unpick and reuse the collar (and potentially the skirt) and re-do the bodice, in either the same, or a contrasting/co-ordinating fabric?
ReplyDeletei think i may be over this version to be honest. i think i will save the lace collar idea for when i get it fitting better as i think i have enough lace left for another try!
DeleteI haven't worked with this pattern, so I'm not much help with regard to the fitting issues you ended up with. :-/ I really love the lace collar too. Maybe you can salvage it and attach it to a different version of the dress or a different pattern entirely.
ReplyDeletethanks - i love it too. i'm going to save the idea for another version!
DeleteI think you should maybe size up for the shoulders and do less of an FBA. I think the bodice maybe looks marginally long, and the darts look a little long too - but I am noooo expert!!
ReplyDeletethanks emmie. you could be right about the bodice length. i think i need to fix the fba issue as it makes it hard to see what else i need as there are wrinkles all over the place!
DeleteThere's some great advice on the fitting already and I'd only repeat it! I would add use a measuring device when doing the FBA (go on, you know you should!) and if the side darts need moving, just move them but you'd already worked that out!
ReplyDeleteI love that colour on you and if you like the collar, rip it out and reuse it. I bet the crepe has stretched making your life way harder!
haha - i really should, shouldn't i? bigger size and proper fba it is. might do another flora first tho!
DeleteGosh, I am really grateful when people post their fails - I think it's one of the best things ever that we can all learn from and help each other!! :)
ReplyDeleteNot that I'm any kind of expert on fitting (still trying to nail that perfect bodice fit myself!), but as others have said, it does look like your bodice is too long below the bust. My guess is that if you just did a regular FBA and raised the dart a bit you'd probably get a way better fit without having to muck around with anything more serious; I'd try doing just that, as well as a broad shooulder adjustment before using a different pattern size; it could very well be that the wrinkling above the bust is due to the unneeded lengthening, not an incorrect size. I agree with Vicki, it does look like your back neckline has stretched out, causing the poor fit on the collar, and probably accounting for some of the other wrinkling as well.
As I know I have to do an FBA on every pattern, I ALWAYS muslin the bodice (I never make wearable muslins cause I know I'll end up with sad wadders LOL). This way is quick and dirty but does the job without a lot of extra fuss or fabric waste. It looks like you've nailed the skirt fit, so really all you need to do is go ahead and muslin the bodice again once you make your revised adjustments; if you have enough fabric maybe you can even save this version by just making a new bodice!! :)
thanks amanda! i may have over lengthened as that seems to be a common thread. i may retrace the current size and try again with FBA and shoulder adjustments and if not, i may need a bigger size! no more fabric to change the bodice and i'm a big over what a pain it was to sew to be honest so i think it will be a different version!
DeleteI totally get that :) At least it's not a total waste; it's a learning experience! :)
Deletevery true and a good way to look at it!
DeleteI made two muslins of the Emery dress before I found my perfect fit. The first one, I picked the wrong size. The second one, I lowered the bust darts when I didn't have to and I had to do a square shoulder adjustment. I've only fitted clothes for myself; I can give you ideas, but I'm not an expert. I don't think you needed to add an inch in length above the bust darts. You can move the bust dart apex an inch lower. If you need length, you can add it 2 inches above the waist.
ReplyDeleteI agree with Symon, I would try to do a broad back adjustment before you make it in a bigger size. I think the size you made fits you. I agree with some people above where you shouldn't eye ball FBA, use a ruler. I have several rulers and a French curve for this. I find it kind of therapeutic.
I think another problem, but I'm not so sure, is that your lining is woven, less drapey than your main fabric. The lining has structure whereas the main fabric hangs differently. Again, I'm not 100 percent sure.
I think this color and style actually looks lovely on you. Of course, if you get the fitting sorted out.
thanks kathy. always good to know other people have fitting problems too! i think i need to go back to the drawing board on this one. thanksfully i traced the pattern rather than cutting! the main fabric is also woven but i think altho it's not stretchy it did stretch a bit. i'll get mine fitting as well as yours do eventually!
DeleteIt's so frustrating when you think you've made the proper adjustments and they don't work! I say just toss this one and start over again. You've got some good advice in previous comments.
ReplyDeletethanks laura - that is my plan!
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