Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Minerva Blogger Network - My Favourite Jacket!


This could be one of my most useful makes ever!

I have been holding out for the release of the Carmine Jacket from Cake Patterns since late last year when it was announced as part of the Red Velvet Collection.  It's no secret that I am a total Cake fangirl - I have made 2 Tiras, 2 Pavlova skirts, a long sleeved and short sleeved Pavlova wrap top, 3 Red Velvet dresses, 2 Cabarita tops, 2 Hummingbird skirts and 2 Hummingbird peplum tops.  Actually, am I out of fangirl and into stalker territory yet?

It seemed like a really useful little knit jacket (and is it any surprise I am planning another version already?)

The fabric is the Morgan crepe jersey that I have made 2 dresses from already (both Red Velvets which you can see here and here).  I really love this fabric and would recommend it for knit beginners - it's got a good amount of stretch but is stable and easy to work with, with no curling edges.  The crepe texture is really nice and there's a less textured side too (I always spend ages trying to choose which is the right side!).

The sizing follows Cake's usual method - choosing the bust size using high bust and working out the difference between high and full bust to work out the cup size (there are A-D lines on the pattern, but Steph has included directions for larger cup sizes).  It took me a while to get my head around the construction - there is a shrug piece which has underarm gussets, and a circular collar which makes the collar and the lower back of the jacket.  You cut the collar based on cup size too.



It went together really easily - I think this could be done (including the basted fitting of the shrug that Steph recommends) in about 2.5 hours.

I tried the stretch tricot stitch on my new machine for the first time.  I wasn't sure if this was the ubiquitous lightning bolt stitch that everyone recommends for sewing knits, but it worked really well.  Much more secure than my long narrow zig zag i have always used.  It's quite slow though - sewing round the outer edge of that huge collar piece took a while!  As the jersey was stable, I didn't use my walking foot.  And even my overlocker (or overlord as she is now known) played ball! You might want to add a tag at the back neckline - I had a small panic when trying on after I had added the button and buttonhole that I had totally messed with the fit, but then realised I had put it on upside down (doh!).

I added the button on quite low down to pull it in at the waist a bit, as I think this is more flattering on me, which gives a more dramatic collar.  Vicki from Minerva (the Buttonmaster General) helped me pick this fab burgundy "selfmade" button for it, but this is a great opportunity to showcase an excellent single button you might have in your button box.



This makes a great cardigan for this time of year, and it'll be a really useful jacket when the weather heats up a bit.

I have shown it here worn with a previous Minerva make - my Kelly skirt, but it goes just as well with jeans and dresses.

If you want to recreate this jacket, you can buy a kit here which includes 3m of the jersey (enough to cut the collar piece twice if you mess it up - ask me how I know!) and a "selfmade" button.



30 comments:

  1. Very cute! I need to make more cardigans/jackets/hoodies because they all go so well with summer dresses!!

    - That's Sew Amy

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  2. That is a totally fab jacket! I hadn't seen the pattern before, but it's got my name written all over it. Going straight onto my list of patterns I want.

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    1. thanks sam - can't wait to see your version! it's one of the Riff patterns so cheap for an indie - about £6 i think?

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  3. Love the jacket and the brooch!
    Perfect for throwing on during these mixed temperatures :-)

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    1. thanks amy. brroch is from ladybird likes and bought with this jacket in mind. i think you introduced me to them actually!

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  4. Love the jacket! I love Cake patterns too, having made the red velvet and the tiramisu. I might even order your kit:)

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    1. ooh that's so exciting! cake patterns are great.

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  5. Well worth the wait :)

    It looks great on you, very flattering. I like that you made it in a solid. I'm seriously considering adding the Carmine to my fall sewing list.

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    1. thanks - it's a great pattern! i am definitely planning a striped version if i can find the right doubleknit.

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  6. Vicki is the button master. She's great at picking what works.
    Love your cardi. It's so versatile as you've shown :)

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    1. she really is! what would we do without her?

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  7. Very cute. And this will be very versatile! I love the button too. Cute colour!

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  8. lovely! I haven't opened my envelope yet, but your version is just what I hoped it would look like! ;)

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    1. aawww thanks! open the envelope! i want to see some more versions!

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  9. I haven't got started on mine yet so was really pleased how see how yours has turned out, it looks great. I even have this exact same jersey, which I bought for my second Red Velvet but it had a hole in the middle of it :o( Hoping I can get a carmine out of it.
    Being such a fangirl I wonder if you know why Steph stopped doing the pavlova skirt as a PDF?

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    1. Oh no! Did you let minerva know? Sure they would sort it out. But you should be able to get around it for this pattern. I have tweeted steph to ask about the pavlova and will let you know if i hear anything!

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    2. Hey- So glad y'all love Carmine! :) I pulled the Pavlova Skirt .pdf because she had some errata and I felt she wasn't quite on par with the rest of our .pdf offerings. She's been spiffed and is being re-tiled right now for re-release. :)

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    3. Oh that is super, Steph! I thought some Pavlova's would be a nice addition to my spring/summer wardrobe :-) Sounds like you have been super busy, wish I had your energy!

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    4. *pavlovas* it's too early!

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  10. Must not comment in Feedly, I always hit the back button and erase the whole bloody thing!
    I did contact them to see if they would give me free p&p for next time but I never heard back. Still, not like it will go to waste now! Very sweet of you to contact Steph and ask, suppose I could have done that myself, lazy me ;-) Have a great weekend!

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  11. This is very cute Jo! I definitely need more cardigan/jackets into my wardrobe and this might do it! I love the color on you. I also love your whole wardrobe!

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    1. Thanks Kathy! I am about to start a dress sewing spree so hopefully my wardrobe of dresses will match yours!

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  12. Love the jacket - looking forward to making a Carmine in my about to start autumn/winter sewing fest. Putting a tag on a garment is a great idea I use on pull-on pants so I can tell front from back - saves a lot of angst. I thought I might like to raise the back neckline on the Carmine and wondered if anyone else had done so. If you have, would you be willing to share your tips on how to do this?

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    1. Hi corinne. thanks very much. I made her straight off the pattern. But you could raise the back neckline on the shrug piece. Prob best to contact steph. If you used a heavier or stiffer knit it would stand up a bit more at the collar. Or add the button higher up which would make the collar less open?

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  13. Oh cute! This would be great over summer dresses for the cooler months and being knit super comfy :)

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    1. Thanks. I guess for you summer dresses with a cover up are an option in winter. We need that in summer! And yes super comfy!

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  14. This is a very cute dress! I think the fit on this dress is much better.
    African Fabrics, African Wax Print

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Thanks for your comment - it's great to hear from you!