Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Operation winter coat - the reveal!


So here is my final coat!

I am so happy with it and it's an absolute pleasure to put it on every day. Of course the cost/effort per wear on a coat comes out pretty well which is satisfying! 
In this post, I'm showing off the final pics and will talk about fitting adjustments I made, and I'll show you details in another post. 



On comparing my actual measurements to my pattern measurements, I found I needed an FBA (no surprise), a little extra room at the hips/ bum level (another non - surprise) and more ease in the arms (I appear to have weirdly big elbows!). I also added 1/2" shoulder width and did a small square shoulder adjustment.

The front pattern piece was tough to adjust as it looked like this:


On the advice of lovely Brooke from Custom Style I had planned to cut it apart at the waist, but as I needed extra room at the hips too I was able to slash the pattern piece all the way down and add in some extra in the right places.

Should have taken my hands out of my pockets to photograph the back - that pulling isn't there without them!


The weirdest thing is that I did no length adjustments in the body at all! The waist was in the right place and the hem length was perfect.  In hindsight, the pockets could stand to be perhaps 1.5" lower  as it feels like I pull on them slightly when I put my hands in. But they are totally functional.  I also lengthened the sleeves to full length from bracelet length and as a result had to taper them slightly.



I muslined one sleeve and also the collar piece as I was concerned it looked a bit small in the picture (it's fine). However I decided to add darts to the back to take out some excess fabric at back waist. This was done by pinching out the right amount of fabric at waist level, splitting that between 2 darts and measuring where I wanted them to end top and bottom. I had a bit of trial and error in the dart positioning at first as I placed them too close to the side seams so I was glad I had just pinned them to begin with. Me and the seam ripper are too friendly as it is!  

In the final fabric I ended up taking in the side seams more to narrow the bodice to the waist as the shape as drafted  just wasn't working for me. Unfortunately I feel like I took a lot of the vintage flavour out of the coat, but it definitely works better for me this way. 

Details of the construction to follow! 

One last pic as it's a nice background!



29 comments:

  1. Beautiful, Jo! The fit and construction look perfect.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh my gosh, it turned out so beautifully! You did a wonderful job on your coat! I like the visually textured fabric - it's interesting but still works as a neutral. You are perfectly right to be so satisfied with it! It's a great classic coat with a lovely silhouette!

    I look forward to reading your details post. =)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Brooke. I love to geek out on the details!

      Delete
  3. This looks brilliant and totally still retains a vintage flavour. First thing I thought when I saw it was vintage! ;-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks marilla. I guess it's vintagey but more 50s than 60s perhaps?

      Delete
  4. This is beautiful! It must be so nice to put on your coat to say you made it! It looks really lovely! I'm working on a coat too, but it's taking me a while to finish. Hopefully, when it's done, it will be lovely like yours!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kathy. You are making a pivot aren't you? Really looking forward to seeing it!

      Delete
  5. This looks beautiful! I love the fabric and the fit in spot on

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. THanks Jenny! I picked up great tips from your coat making exploits!

      Delete
  6. Wow! I adore it, you look amazing in it Jo!

    ReplyDelete
  7. That's gorgeous babe. What an achievement! You owe yourself lots of aperitifs for this one. Also if I'm not mistaken is that down on Madeira drive in b town in front of the light studio? Xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have been indulging in aperitifs all Xmas in celebration! It is in btown! I love the light studio. One day I will buy everything!

      Delete
  8. Beautiful coat Joanne and the fit is spot on, I bet you wear it to death! I've been looking forward to the big reveal for ages and it doesn't disappoint - fab work! x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks lovely! I have lost my blogging mojo recently so just getting back to it!

      Delete
  9. There is definitely still a vintage flavour to this. It's beautiful, and the fit looks perfect. Sounds like a lot of work, but it was definitely worth it. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Helen. Coats are a lot of work but effort per wear they are good!

      Delete
  10. Its gorgeous! The fabric is a lovely choice, neutral without being boring. Great job on the fit too.

    ReplyDelete
  11. oh wow, what a stunning coat! It looks fabulous!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Wow! This is a great coat. You did such a fabulous job on it. How wonderful that you didn't need any adjustments in the length of it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. i know! with hindsight a slight tweak in the pocket height might have been a good idea but nothing apart from that!

      Delete
  13. Wowee looks fab! I hope you're feeling fashionable as you brave the winter weather

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for your comment - it's great to hear from you!