I am working on the bodice for my Mad Men Challenge dress, using NL 6000 as a base. I started with a tissue fit to determine length adjustment (always! In this case 2" which is less than usual - I have heard this bodice runs long) and correct dart placement (fine). No point on making a muslin that definitely won't fit, is there?
I also decreased the seam allowances to give myself an extra 1" at the waist, and here is the first result:
Pretty bad, right? I thought the wrinkles above the bust were to do with my square shoulders and so I added those strange flaps of blue fabric you can see in the first pic to test the theory of changing the shoulder, but to no avail. To say nothing of the gaping armscye and wibbly neckline. So I turned to the ladies of Twitter for advice, and as ever they delivered!
I was shocked to find out (as I have always considered myself to be amongst the small-of-bust) that I needed a small (1/2") FBA!
Here's the results for round 2:
A massive improvement I think! Those annoying wrinkles are gone and neckline is lying flat (in real life at least - holding up the camera makes it look off in the top pic).
It's not perfect though - there's still a lot of gaping in the armscye which needs to be addressed. I thought about increasing the FBA but think it would have been too loose around the bust. I might try a slightly larger FBA another time.
Following more Twitter advice from the lovely Rachel at House of Pinheiro (that girl is great trying to explain the process to me in 140 characters from her holiday in Brazil to see her family!) I pinned a dart at the armhole, transferred to the pattern and rotated the excess into the bust dart.
Minimal gapeage! (it actually does lie flatter than it looks when I am holding up the camera!)
I even tried a square shoulder adjustment on this to see if it made a difference:
I don't think it changed much in this case although I will bear it in mind for future!
But what a difference some great advice and a few muslins made to the fit. From this:
Thanks to all the #sewcialists who helped, especially Laura at A Make-it-Yourself Mom's Diary, Rachel, Maris at Sew Maris and Brooke at Custom Style! You guys...
I'm ready to start drafting the skirt now!